Dave MacLeod: 9 out of 10

Tilasin kirjan lomalukemiseksi ja täytyy todeta, että todella positiivinen kokemus kaikenmaailman kaupallisten erichorstien jälkeen. Näin vuoden lopulla on usein tapana arvioida mennyttä ja suunnitella tulevaa kiipeilykautta. Tämän kirjan (sekä kriittisen itsereflektion) avulla käy mitä mainioimmin.

9 out of 10 avautuu mielestäni parhaiten harrastajalle, jolla on jo useamman vuoden kokemus kalliokiipeilystä ja harjoittelusta. Toki jos olet uusi harrastaja ja innokas oppimaan, niin suosittelen. Kirja toimii itsevalmennuskumppanina, sillä kirjoittaja kertoo hyvin selkeästi ja seikkaperäisesti tavallisimmat kehittymisen kohteet ja harjoittelun puutteet. Myös erilaisia caseja tarjoillaan.

Kirjoittaja kumoaa myös seikkaperäisesti perustellen muutamia uskomuksia, joita liittyy esimerkiksi krimppaamiseen, campusteluun, punttiharjoitteluun, syömiseen jne. Erittäin hyödyllistä ja viihdyttävää lukemista. Myös John Dunnen mysteeri analysoidaan.


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Sisllysluettelo kirjan aiheista:

Contents:

9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes

Barking up the wrong tree

Part 1 - Creatures of habit
Stuck on the basics
The first thing to understand
The first thing to change
Fail, and prepare to succeed
If only I knew now what I knew then
Too embarrassed to climb?
Is this grade a success or mediocre?
The first generation was the freest
Starting from scratch
The truth about famous climbers
Know your enemy - your tastes
Don’t get stuck
Creatures of habit


Part 2 - The big four: movement technique, finger strength, endurance, body mass
The biggest lesson from sport science
You cannot break the laws
How to learn technique
Record, replay, review
No one does drills, right?
The structure of climbing technique
The need for momentum
Types of momentum
The issue of height
Don’t just push with your feet!
Counterintuitive aspects of climbing technique
Precision really matters
Trying to make the hold bigger
Don’t overrate strength
Bouldering is number one
But I don’t like bouldering!
How to boulder to show off, or get strong
Board heads
A good bouldering session
Fingerboard rules
To crimp or not to crimp
Making sense of Haston and Oddo
Making sense of Ondra and Sharma shapes
How light do I need to be?
How to get light without pain?
Steps for losing and maintaining a lower weight for climbing
Who needs to pump iron to climb hard?
To the wiry
To the beefcake
To the tall
To the lucky little ones
When you really can blame your tools
Campus boards hurt almost everyone
Climbing is not a cardiovascular sport
Where is climbing endurance?
Endurance activities
Understanding fatigue symptoms
Endurance rules

Part 3 - Fear of falling: the real problem, probably…
The only way
Falling technique
Practice indoors
Practice on sport climbs
Building falls into your daily climbing diet
Practice on trad
When you just can’t fall off

Part 4 - The other big four: attitude, lifestyle, circumstances, tactics
I’m young, spoon-feed me!
Why mid-teens drop off the radar
“I can’t do that” he said, mistakenly
Too old to improve?
To find time, make your time work harder for you
Do you really want to be an athlete?
Tactics often trump training
What the warmup does
Tuning in and out
Managing the ‘psyche’ level
Do you really want it to be easy?
Be thick skinned at all times
Does flexibility really matter?

Part 5 - What’s next coach? Planning your improvement
Think curves, not lines
So jump off that plateau, if you can bear it
Regimes - how much can you handle?
Over-resting or under-recovering?
A kid’s regime
A student’s regime
A family/career hustler
The wannabe pro
The confused and disillusioned
Same old routine, same old results
Cracking bad habits is tough
Rules of the training day
Rules of the training season
Annual rest and recuperation time

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